Description
Waiting for his wave. Watching, soaking up the sea atmosphere, checking out the competition. I’ve watched surfers just sitting there, watching wave sets roll in. Waiting for the moment they have the energy, and see a wave coming. Until then, they wait. I didn’t know about aspect of surfing til I started to watch them at my local beach. Its at once nothing and everything. It’s not surfing, it’s recovery. It’s socializing, and it’s planning, waiting for your wave. It’s part of surf etiquette, that only surfers understand. It’s the bit in between the exertion.
